Showing posts with label Harrowing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Harrowing. Show all posts

Friday, March 25, 2011

A Belated Cairo Update

For those that have been wondering about me, I'm still in Cairo. I never left, but let's just say that my life since January has been "interesting". I am fine. If anyone has been living under a rock and not followed the news since January, the domino effect of revolting countries in the Middle East that began with Tunisia, a little known North African country until now, fell to a riotous melee' in Cairo the weekend of January 25, 2011. The first 5 days of the demonstrations were hair raising. The morning before the situation in Cairo heightened, I was living my life as normal... running errands like I typically do on Fridays. I got a  pedi, met friends for lunch, then had a Tarot card reading. LOL. You know. Typical Friday stuff. However, I remembered how there were so many people on the streets that day talking to one another, dressed in patriotic colors, and carrying their National flag. Mobile phones and internet were down, which forced people to go out and communicate with their friends and neighbors the old fashioned way. For the first time in history, social media networking caused a revolution. Following the lead of neighboring Tunisia's revolt that toppled the 23 year reign of its president, growing discontent in Egypt were raised to a crescendo by Facebook and Twitter, which eventually was dubbed "The Facebook Revolution" or "The Twitter Revolution".  Egypt's government tried to stifle these venues by cutting off mobile phone and internet connectivity that week-end. Little did they know of the power of social media! Their seemingly simple solution was the match that ignited the revolt in Cairo, as outraged citizens were incensed that their voices could not be heard, and thus gathered in downtown's Tahir Square. Egyptians that didn't want to make a stand earlier were now part of the demonstrations as they fought for their voice of freedom to be heard.  (Ironically, Tahir means "freedom" in Arabic.) Soon streets were littered with angry anti-government demonstrators and opportunistic criminals.  Stores were looted and government buildings were burned down. The crowds swelled from hundreds of thousands to a million in the ensuing days of Cairo's revolution. Tear gas cans marked with "made in USA" inscriptions were thrown on the streets to tamp down angry demonstrators and looters. The police abandoned their posts as angry mobs chased them away after being subjected to years of police corruption. (To date only 30% have returned back to work.) Then 17,000 prisoners escaped when prisons were burned in the riots, stealing weapons in the melee' as they made their escape. (Only 10% have been captured.) This, compounded with anti-government demonstrators and the mass evacuation of over 2,000 U.S. mission personnel made life in Cairo NOT fun in the early days of the revolution. Gunfire was heard throughout the neighborhoods, and everyone was placed under a nationwide curfew with the cautioning message that anyone caught outside after curfew would be shot. Yep, good times.... good times. I was alone in my highrise apartment cut off from the outside world with no mobile phone and internet connectivity, and yet I was not afraid. My landline phone was still working and my handheld security radio kept me connected to the U.S. embassy. Unrelated to the events, my cable was down which was a good thing. If I had been tuned in 24/7 to the violence that was shown on the news, I would have been frightened. In the suburbs where I live, only a mild flash of unrest was occuring. BUT, the uncertainty of the unknown and the sounds of gunfire outside were unnerving. I tuned out the situation by watching the last DVD tv season of "Northern Exposure." LOL. But then my tv time came to an abrupt halt, as I helped with the mass evacuation of U.S. mission personnel and their families. A logistic adrenaline rush for me... 22 hour work days, every day for 11 days... and 3 U.S. personnel left at my Command to maintain the work and the oversight of  150 traumatized Egyptian staff personnel. To date the situation in Egypt remains unpredictable, and evacuees still have not returned. While things have calmed down and returned to a semi-semblance of order, the Egypt of my past is no more. President Mubarek's 30 year reign may be over, but the road to recovery and democracy will be a long time coming for Egypt. Pocket demonstrations continue as private groups gather like the Tea Party groups in the U.S.  These demonstrations, compounded with the tension between the Coptic Christians and Muslims, keep the drama viable. Coptics make up 10% of the population in Egypt, and still carry an open wound from the 2011 New Year's Day Coptic church bombing in Alexandria and this month's Coptic church burning in Helwan that point accusing fingers to the Muslim Brotherhood; a radical Islamic group that is vying for a win in the presidential election in September. Time will tell how Egypt will fare.  In the mean time, historical events have seen the wave of  uprisings in the Middle East by the revolutions in Tunisia, Egypt, Libya; major protests in Algeria, Bahrain, Djibouti, Iraq, Jordan, Oman, Syria, and Yemen; and minor protests in Kuwait, Iran, Lebanon, Mauritania, Morocco, Saudi Arabia, Sudan and Western Sahara. As I close, I can't help but think that Charles Dickens said it best: "These are the best of times, these are the worst of times." I just pray for Peace in the Middle East. I hope you do the same.

Follow Up: The ordered evacuation of US Mission Personnel at the US Embassy Cairo was finally lifted on May 12, 2011. While police strength has not seen a 100% return, it has seen 80%  visbility in areas in Cairo that have high ex-pat and diplomatic visibility such as Maadi, Mohandissen, and Zamalek. Criminality continues to be high as purse snatchings, car jackings, and apartment break-ins are constant occurrences in post-revolutionary Cairo. There is very little police interference on behalf of local citizens and ex-pats, since the police fear retribution from the populace that turned violently on them during the revolution. The police have lost their power, hence one's security and safety are no longer assured. Cairo's future remains uncertain, and the upcoming presidential elections in September are being anticpated with dreaded concern.  

Friday, October 22, 2010

Climbing Mount Sinai


The next morning I started out at 2 am (yikes!) on the rigorous pilgrimage up Mount Sinai, a.k.a. Moses' Mountain. Hundreds of people from around the world came to St. Catherine's for this spiritual sunrise climb, and I was one of about 500 that day. Peeps could go by foot or camel.  I chose the latter since I was still getting over a bronchial infection. Regardless of what method of travel peeps chose, it was an exhausting journey.


Along the way, there were canteen rest stops that were run by the Sinai bedouins. They were a welcomed sight after hours spent on the trail in the dark. The pilgrimage route was pitch black except for the twinkling lights of hundreds of flashlights, which made the experience more surreal.


Although the climb to the top was only 5 miles, it was slow going because the rugged terrain was met with rocky bends, craggy cliffs, and steep uneven pathways. The darkened trails were littered with camel riders, hikers, and bedouin guides, and we all trudged forward on automatic pilot. It was sooo early!


This was the rest stop prior to the 750 steps climb.  At this point, camel riders had to dismount and go the rest of the way by foot. The daunting climb was SO steep!


When we reached the top, we were euphoric but utterly exhausted. It took 3 hrs to get up there, and we still had a half hour to go before sunrise was to appear.  My friend Dave took advantage of the break by taking a little cat nap.


And then the sky started to lighten up.


Ever so slowly, the sun peeped out from its lair.


Then cameras started clicking.


Gooooood Morrrrrning, Sunrise!


The top of Mount Sinai was filled to clicking capacity!


And then with a collective groan, it was time to make our way down and return rented blankets back to the bedouin rest stops.


It was strange "seeing" our surroundings! The view was spell binding and unnerving at the same time.


It was God's country!


The journey was not easy, but it was so worth the experience! 







Break Time!



Bedouins greeted us at the bottom of the 750 steps and haggled with us over a "good price" to ride their camels back to the monastery. And haggle I did! Thankfully, I got another sweet docile mount!


However, the camel station was a crowded site to get through!


But then we were off!



This was my bedouin camel guide.


I had fun taking pictures along the way.


And then the welcoming sight of St. Catherine's loomed ahead in the distance. I was so ecstatic! It had been a long morning, and a long 6 hr round trip journey. My back ached, and my knees hurt. However, I was blessedly thankful for having done it. To think that Moses had made a similar journey to meet with God, made all my aches and pains disappear. It was a spiritual and unforgettable journey of a lifetime!


Monday, June 7, 2010

Shark Cage Diving!

Well, the day of reckoning finally arrived and I was on my way to cross another item off my bucket list: Shark Cage Diving! And not just any shark, and not just any place. I chose to do it in Gansbaii, South Africa (of greater Cape Town); the Great White Shark Capital of the World.



Here's the boat that my group went out on. Check out the 4-person cage! 16 people braved the 49 degrees (F) water temps, and oh yeah, facing off Great Whites!





So, we loaded up and headed out to sea!



Lars, our Master Diver, assumed his spot and immediately started scanning the horizon for tell-tale fins.



I was nervous, but my excitement outweighed my apprehensions.



After a 20 minute ride, the boat anchored and preparations for the dive began. First the cage was moved to the side, and then the first four went in (yeah, baaaaby!). Lars threw out bait attached to a bobber, and then the waiting game began.







Within minutes, we had our first sighting and Lars called out, "Sharrrrk! Down! Down! Down!"





We went under, and went face to face with JAWS. The girl to my left vomited when sharks got closer, and asked to get out immediately. Poor dear.


Some sharks were passive.


Some sharks toyed with us.


And a few, were down right aggressive!


I have to admit my heart jumped to my throat when the aggressive ones butted against our cage, but I stayed the entire time down. It was totally exhilarating!



But through it all, I kept clicking away... and enjoyed myself immensely!


Each dive group had about 45 minutes below.


BUT, I got to do a second dive since several people backed out. BONUS!



If I had heard the "JAWS" theme song when I saw this Great White coming at me, I would've wet my wetsuit! LOL.


Overall, It was an amazing trip, a wonderful adventure, and one I would definitely do again! Cape Town made my fave five. I HEART CAPE TOWN!