Shopping at Mokattam Hills Recycling Center

Following my Coptic Churches tour, I went to the Recycling Center in Mokattam Hills, an area in greater Cairo where Garbage City is located. The Recycling Center is on the tourist circuit, because it's a section of Garbage City that rakes in monies for various charities in the community that focuses on the poor. In 1984, the Association for the Protection of the Environment (A.P.E.) registered with the Ministry of Social Affairs in Egypt. A.P.E. is a private voluntary organization that promotes environmentally safe waste management by "empowering garbage collectors, particularly women, children, and youths to manage a viable system of household waste including recycling in Egypt through comprehensive development: health, education, social, economic, and cultural programs to become better agents of change for a better environment." In a nutshell this group teaches women, who normally would not be able to support themselves, a craft trade such as weaving, quilting, and sewing so that they can lead independent lives and provide for their families. They create hand crafted items out of remnant materials, not thrown away in the garbage, but from cloth manufacturing factories that donate discarded material. In part, these women hand craft rugs, bags, clothing, wall hangings, and quilts via a small systematic production line. These items are then sold in a back storeroom where tourists and locals can purchase said items, and effectively fund the charities that A.P.E. sponsors. These programs include pre-schools and nurseries for indigent families; literacy programs and after school classes for people who didn't go to school; social activities and summer camps for impoverished children; awareness programs for adolescent girls to reduce the number of early marriages; treatment programs for mother-baby care and Hepatitis C patients; and prevention programs for infant mortality and hygiene care. It was wonderful knowing that the hand crafted kitchen rugs, wall hangings, and quilts I purchased at bargain prices were going to earn revenue for this charitable group, thus overriding any buyer's remorse I may have developed later. Finally! A worthy reason to go shopping!!

10,000-Seated Coptic Church

I continued my tour of the Mokkatam Hills Coptic Churches, and visited the largest Coptic Church in Cairo that seats 10,000. Like the first one I visited, it was built within the caverns of Mokkatam Hills but I thought it was more aethestically pleasing because of the colored lines of earthly limestone that naturally painted the walls of the church. It was set up like an outdoor amphitheatre with holy figures etched on the cavern walls. While this type of church would not be suited in locales where 4 seasons would bring inclement weather, it is perfect in Cairo where 2 benign seasons are the climates of choice. I especially liked the outside of the church, which had more etchings and holy scripture written in Arabic that graced the rocky hill side. I was privileged to visit this hidden jewel that is not mentioned in the tourist books; an advantage of being a "local". Bonus!

Garbage City's Coptic Churches

Today I went to "Garbage City", the slums of Cairo that is the site of Cairo's garbage industry suburb and home to 50,000 people; 90% comprised of Coptic Christians. In a city of 20 million people predominantly Muslims, Garbage City's Coptic Christian prevalence is due to their control of the garbage industry. Why do Coptics control the garbage industry? Pig slop. Before the landfills were filled with money making recyclable materials such as aluminum, plastic and glass, garbage collectors that lived and worked in Garbage City would make extra money by rummaging through the landfills and separating the refuse of food thrown away that would later be sold to pig farmers for pig slop. Muslims, by the teachings of the Qu'ran (Islamic Holy Book), revile pork and cannot touch it. Therefore, Coptic Christians were given the sordid duties of dealing with pigs, and anything associated with them. Later, more lucrative recyclable materials began appearing in the landfills, and the slums of Cairo nicknamed "Garbage City" began to resemble a real community. Low rent apartments, markets, schools and Coptic churches sprang and the community thrived. In the summer, the smell of Garbage City is so bad that visitors rarely venture there, but for those that grew up in Garbage City it is the smell of home. The Coptic churches in Garbage City are a hidden secret, and are remarkable. They were built in the deep caverns of "Mokattam Hills" and was believed by Coptics to be founded by St. Simon, the shoemaker, who performed the miracle of moving the Mokattam Mountains in Cairo, Egypt in 10th Century A.D. with God's help. Coptics credit him for the establishment of the cavern-like Coptic churches in Garbage City that are nestled in the foothills of Mokattam Hills. There are two notable cavern Coptic churches in Garbage City. The one featured in this blog is the smaller of the two that seats 500. As you can see, it was rustic and uniquely structured. The 10,000-seated Coptic church is featured in the next blog.

My First Opera Experience: Aida!

On Friday evening, I got guzzied up and attended the opera "Aida" at the Cairo Opera House with a friend. While I had attended several events at the opera house, I had actually never attended an opera there. In fact, this was my FIRST opera experience EVER. Ironically, the backdrop of my first opera was set in Egypt, where I just happened to live... so needless to say, it was a memorable experience for me.



We arrived there a little early with the intention of touring the Ministry of Egyptian Modern Arts building, which shared the manicured compound of the Cairo Opera House. I had wanted to see the art work inside, but it was not meant to be that evening because it was closed by the time we arrived. I did admire the tower-like minaret behind it. At night it lit up brightly like a bejeweled Christmas tree. It was truly beautiful! During prayers, the minaret is one of many that amplifies chants from the Qur'an (Islamic Holy Book) that is heard widely throughout Cairo.



We spent the remaining time walking leisurely on the well-kept lawn, and admiring the exhibited art work.







And then we hurried to the opera house across the way to find our seats!





Overall, Aida was fantastic! The pharoanic costumes and set designs were brilliant, and the singing was superb as it swept the audience through 4 dramatic acts. In true operatic fashion, "Aida" was sung in Italian, but I was able to follow it fairly well. Thankfully, I read the storyline beforehand! "Aida" was an ill-fated love story set in ancient Egypt about a pharoanic military commander and a captured Ethiopian slave girl. Unbeknownst to the military commander and pharoah (Egyptian king), the slave girl Aida was the daughter of the king of Ethiopia who was warring against Egypt. Events became more dramatic when pharoah promised his own daughter's hand in marriage to the military commander. Already in love with Aida, who returned his love passionately, he betrayed his country by helping her escape. He eventually was captured and sealed in a vaulted tomb alive. Thinking that Aida was safely back with her father, he was surprised to discover that she had hidden herself in the tomb to die with him. The opera ended with the lovers dying in each other's embrace amid operatic arias and intense orchestral music. Truly a powerful ending!

Attending the Carmen Ballet

Tonight I attended a Spanish dance company's (Antonio Gades) performance of Carmen. Ironically, Carmen is ranked as the fourth most performed opera in America, but this particular interpretation focused on the dance.

The story is about a wanton, fiery tempered gypsy named Carmen, who freely gives her love in the backdrop of Seville, Spain circa 1830. She woos a young soldier named Don José away from his current love. Smitten with the alluring gypsy, he incites a mutiny against his military superior, and joins a gang of smugglers. When Carmen grows tired of Don Jose' and shifts her attention to a handsome bullfighter named Escamillo, Don Jose' murders Carmen in a jealous rage.

The energy of the performance was palpable as the Spanish Co. performed Flamenco dances with quick footed ease and energetic hand clapping. The performance was NOT a ballet. It was "Lord of the Dance" meets Flamenco. However, it was entertaining and culturally enriching. In the background, Spanish acoustic guitars were strummed with crescendoed fervor, and there was even singing! It was minimal at best, but was intermixed during the climatic build up of Flamenco foot stomping. Did I enjoy the performance? Yes. Did I love it? Well, let's just say that the operatic version would have been better. As I filed out of the Opera House, I admired the water fountain in the outer lobby that was still adorned in holiday cheer. I found it pleasantly uplifting and for some reason prompted me to hum the theme song as I headed out the door. Hmnn mmmn hmnnn mmnnnn......